When you think of a floral fragrance, chances are, notes of rose, neroli, peony, or orange blossoms come to mind. But for the latest Chloé Les Fleurs de Nuit fragrance collection, perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault reimagined the very distinct note of tuberose. The entire collection consists of three different fragrances all inspired by flowers that bloom in the night. However, Hérault was only responsible for creating one scent—Atelier des Fleurs Tubéreuse Lazuli Eau de Parfum.
“It was a challenge to [create an aroma that was] powerful and distinctive, but at the same time light, delicate, and natural,” he shares. The result? A fresh floral scent that can be worn day to night. Ahead, Hérault shares his inspiration behind Tubéreuse Lazuli, how he found his passion as a perfumer, and his approach to fragrance layering.
What is your earliest fragrance memory?
The first scent I remember as a child is my mother’s perfume. During this time, she was wearing Shalimar [by Guerlain], and I can remember the smell perfectly. The perfume has changed since then and sometimes I have a hard time recognizing it because there is no birch or castellum anymore. But [regardless], I can still remember the original Shalimar [to this day].
What first sparked your interest in perfumery? How long have you been a perfumer?
I began my training 24 years ago. I was very fascinated by fragrance and shared this with Pierre Bourdon [a famous perfumer]. I asked him for some advice and he said, “Give me a few months, and I will train you.” It was the best gift I ever received in my professional life. I was always fascinated by odor, but when I met Bourdon, I fell totally in love with the perfumer job because I realized it was artistic. He spoke with me about the creation of perfume in a way that I thought was so fascinating. I knew I wanted to be part of this creation.
Chloé
What makes the new Chloé Les Fleurs de Nuit fragrance collection so special?
I think the new collection is very special because it had the intention to work around flowers that bloom and express their perfume during the night. [That is why] I worked with tuberose in particular. It’s a way to speak about the seduction of the flower, the intensity of the odor, and its power. It was very nice to have a collection based on this kind of flower.
How does Tubéreuse Lazuli differ from the other two scents in the collection?
Tuberose is used quite often in perfumery. That’s why I wanted to play with it in a different way. The odor of the tuberose in the morning is fresher and greener than what you can smell in the evening. I wanted to focus on the period, just between day and night, when the flower still has freshness but already has that evening aspect. I played with this tension in the odor of the flower itself.
That’s also why I decided to associate tuberose with osmanthus. In the osmanthus, you have something very centrally animalic, but still in the universe of flowers. I also added jasmine to enhance this contrast.
How would you describe your fragrance wardrobe throughout the years?
I have worn the same perfume for the last 14 years. I had a boss who asked me to create a scent, especially for him, and I said yes. His name was Xavier Renard. In English, Renard means fox. That’s why I called it the foxy perfume. It’s a play on words with his name but it also expresses that it’s a smart perfume because I only used three ingredients and it smells so good. This is the foxy perfume that I have worn for the last 14 years.
How should we approach fragrance layering?
[When it comes to the] concept of layering, you can mix what you want. At the beginning [of my career], I did not have this same approach. A few years ago, I was introduced to a man who said, “I love your perfume, but I would like to mix it with Chanel No. 5.” I thought, what a strange idea, but he was right. It smelt so good, and it reflected his personality perfectly. That’s why I think it’s a question of freedom and to be able to find your own personality when you associate different perfumes. If you are pleased to associate two perfumes, do it. There is no rule.