The perfumes we wear practically write the stories of our lives. You’d be hard-pressed to recall a memory that doesn’t include a scent experience—whether it’s the food, the friends, or your summertime fragrance. It’s why we cling so tightly to the trends of the season, as it’s a time when we get to choose how we remember the al fresco dinners, park walks, and (finally) in-season peonies.
This summer, I wanted to look into the biggest, most emergent trends in luxury fragrance. I’m feeling fancy, ok? Luckily, I didn’t have to look very far. There is so much happening in the category right now and so much inspiration to be had. The first, pointed out to me on a recent trip to Paris (I told you I was feeling fancy), was about waning popularity of the “signature” fragrance. People just want to have fun and switch it up. They want to be warm and woody one day and fresh and floral the next. And, we can’t blame them. In a world where micro-trends are over before I’m even able to finish reading about them—we move fast. Things change. “It’s a choice for a moment; for a period of life,” shares Karine Lebret Leroux, the director of fine fragrance creation and development at L’Oréal Luxe. She explains, “There is a blurring of frontiers, a kind of democratization of perfume—which we love. You can take a small spritz when you wake up of [a scent] that brings relief or peace for you. And, when you want to feel more powerful, you can spritz something else and go out and be a queen.”
Below, find everything that’s happening in the way of luxury fragrance trends right now and all the corresponding scents to spray this summer. Let’s make some memories.
The Modern Rose
Roses have always held a significant role in popular fragrance—though, at some point in the last few decades, their reputation changed. Rose scents were often considered stuffy or without whimsy. Now, I’m giddy to say, the rose is back and more sumptuous than ever. With a fresh, modern take on the note, rose fragrances still feel classic and luxurious, but far more evocative of sun-soaked gardens and fresh dew.
My favorite of the bunch is Lancôme’s La Vie Est Belle Rose Extraordinaire, which (along with the fragrance’s signature iris) features the pristine Centifolia rose. This special floral is harvested in Grasse just once a year, in May, and known for it’s many, many petals. The scent is especially elevated due to a new partnership between L’Oréal Groupe and Cosmo International Fragrances. The secret is a slow, waterless extraction process to reveal the exact smell of an ingredient while preserving its integrity. “It’s air extraction of the molecules, so what you smell in the fragrance is exactly the scent in field with the flowers. You get this feeling of real blooms, of air, and the freshness of nature,” explains Lebret Leroux. TLDR: In 2024, we want a rose to smell like a rose. And now, we have exactly that luxury.
L’Oréal Luxe / Jean Picon for Say Who
The Nostalgic Notes
This won’t be the first place you’ve read that scent is deeply tied to memory. And while we all lead very different lives, there are universal experiences that bind us. And this luxury fragrance trend speaks to the keen understanding of how to reach all of us at once. For example, Maison Margiela’s Replica calls on moments in time and allows us to relish in common memories like a lazy sunday morning (white musk and lily of the valley accord), when the sun comes out after a rainstorm (aquatic accord and pine needle oil), and moments spent by a fire (clove oil and chestnut accord).
“It’s a balance of surprise and reassurance,” Lebret Leroux muses. “There’s so much emotion in that.” She adds, “[Scent is] home, it’s your personal perfume, it’s your clothes, it’s your car, it’s your hair—it’s everything.” Rather than developing fragrances that will ultimately build memories, Replica creates scents based off the memories you already have. It’s built-in bliss—and don’t we all need a bit more of that right now?
L’Oréal Luxe / Beaumonde
The Refillables
Sustainability is the word on everyone’s lips and, as such, brands are taking strides to create a better business model when it comes to harvesting, formulating, and shipping their products. Nothing can be perfect, but the significance is in the measured change through transparency and manageable steps. Such is the case when it comes to refillable fragrance, a practice which allows for brands to create less waste and consumers to spend less money.
My first experience with a luxury refillable juice was Prada Paradoxe, a floral ambery fragrance I lusted after since its launch. The iconic bottle, triangular in shape and rounded at the edges, has been designed to limit weight and the use of glass. Once you’ve used up your first one (I finished mine and wanted more, my adoration of jasmine scents know no bounds), you can purchase a discounted refill to use 40% less materials in total. Similar programs exist for fragrances including Viktor&Rolf’s Good Fortune and Armani Beauty’s Acqua di Gio.
The New Gourmand
Much like the rose, gourmand scents have gone through a renaissance of sorts. Rather than evoking the candy-coated cravings of decades past, gourmands of the season are more about warmth and sensuality. The success of the edible scent is predicated on balance. Such is the case with the original 1992 disrupter, Mugler’s Angel Eau de Parfum, which blends praline with a base of patchouli leaf. YSL Beauty’s Black Opium is a sexy mix of black coffee and vanilla. Valentino’s Uomo Born in Roma Coral Fantasy is red apple dosed with tobacco and sage. This summer, we want our sweet scents dipped in a bit of savory.
The Status Symbol
The appetite for a showpiece fragrance, one that looks chic on your vanity and aligns with your personal style, is ever-growing. With the advent of multiple social media apps, where we can portray who we are through photographing our surroundings, we’re inclined to buy products with an aesthetic in mind. We all know the ubiquitous influence of an Aesop sighting on a bathroom sink.
L’Oréal Luxe / Jean Picon for Say Who
In tandem, the synergy between fragrance and fashion houses in translating their vision to scent is increasingly significant. In the same way clothing and accessory trends are first consumed on the runway, those brands offer up another designer piece to be stored atop your dresser. Valentino’s Born in Roma Donna Eau de Parfum Intense is a warm floral made up of vanilla, jasmine, and benzoin, and it’s magnetic the second you smell it (to that end, it the won The Fragrance Foundation’s Luxury Fragrance of the Year award in 2024). But it’s the bottle’s design—the house signature studs of Maison Valentino—and iconic pink juice that will keep it on display in your space.
Similarly, YSL Beauty’s Libre Eau de Parfum looks like an extension of your most special jewelry. Think: golden necklaces and a black pendant worn with an asymmetrical top. It reminds me of a party on the beach in the South of France (where the lavender in the fragrance is harvested). It’s warm, it’s sweet, and it’s fashion all at once. It makes me feel like I’m a part of something luxurious each time I pick it up.